Denim Dungaree Dress – Pauline Alice Turia Hack

img_0211 This is a make that I had originally finished four months ago (yes, four months ago! I had to check instagram to be sure) but since it has recently undergone a structural change to make it more wearable it feels like a new make. It is based on the Pauline Alice Turia dungarees. I really wanted a dungaree dress after seeing so many nice versions around both online and in the shops. I even tried some on in the shops to be sure I would like it. Finding a pattern I liked wasn’t such an easy feat though. There weren’t so many options in May/June when I was planning this. The Marilla Walker Roberts Collection dungaree dress is nice but I wanted something more traditionally dungaree-like. I love the jumpsuit option in the Roberts Collection and will probably buy it for that alone but the thin straps of the dungarees didn’t appeal to me. Since I made this I have noticed some more options – Rachel from House Of Pinheiro‘s self drafted dress tutorial being one but at the time my best option was to take the Pauline Alice dungarees pattern as a base and hack it into a dress. There were a few people who had done this already so I knew it was possible and the process was made easier by the very helpful tutorial on the Pauline Alice blog.

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The fabric is a really thick, really stiff denim from Mandors that I bought on a mini sewing blogger meet up in Glasgow. They were selling it for £5 per metre which is cheap for Mandors. And I’m not sure why as it’s 100% cotton and a good colour. I thought it would do as an experiment, after all i didn’t know for sure how the hack would fare and making a mess of £5 per metre fabric is always preferable to ruining £10 per metre fabric. The stiffness of this denim helps the dress to hold a nice shape, though, I suspect a different sewing machine might have struggled with the many folds in the pockets and seams. My machine is a heavy duty workhorse and handled it without a whimper.


The tutorial was really easy to follow. The cutting lines are clearly marked on the diagram provided – all I did was curve the blue line on the back piece to create a bit of shaping at the back as I wanted it to hug my back instead of hanging straight down. The issue I had when it was done and I first wore it out was that it was just too big. I had imagined a loose shape at the sides but it just looked shapeless and unflattering. I put up with it for a couple of wears but then I stopped wearing it because it just didn’t feel nice on. I knew all I had to do was unpick the side zip and the bias binding on the inside, take it in and then re-do the zip and binding (and all that topstitching!!!) but I just couldn’t face it. The nagging feeling that you get when you know you should do something but don’t (surely not just me!) pursued me for a while until I could bear the guilt no more and then, three months after making my dungaree dress, I sat down and within an hour I had fixed it. It always amazes me how I can be so enthusiastic about making an item but when it comes to fixing, adjusting sides or taking up a hem I have tendency to leave things languishing in a pile. It’s a terrible habit, I know!


Anyway, that’s all in the past now and I have a dungaree dress that I love and wear often. And it’s better than all the dungaree dresses I tried on in the shops!



Happy Harem Coverall

Today was probably the last sunny day of what has been a rubbish summer in these parts but any sunny day is a day for celebration in my book. Wee gal is wearing her newest party outfit. It’s not a dress. It’s a harem pant romper because why not?!


I’ve had my eye on Brindille and Twig patterns for a while. They are good basics but with enough quirky details to suit the age of their target market and they really showcase all the wacky knit fabrics that are out there just now. I took advantage recently of the lower prices of the Harem Coverall and Hooded Vest and I knew immediately that I had to use the appropriately named fabric, Happiness, by Shalmiak. It’s happiness on a plate! Suns, stars, CND signs, rainbows, peace, love and happiness, yes please! I paired it with red and white striped rib knit by Shalmiak. Both fabrics are organic cotton, amazing quality and available here and here in my Etsy shop.

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The romper is well drafted and came together well although I’ll admit to not reading the instructions in detail. It’s a fairly simple construction and I’ve made enough knit garments to feel comfortable about diving in head first but on this occasion I wish I had read the instructions fully before cutting out. As soon as I realised the only way in and out of the romper is through the neck I decided to add button snaps to the shoulders to reduce strain on the neckline. They do advise that you use a fabric with good stretch recovery for the neckline but I think it would have to be very hardwearing to cope with the stress of being pulled over the shoulders umpteen times a day for toilet breaks, undressing, etc. The button snaps work well so it’s not a problem except that I’ve lost a bit of room at the shoulder. The seam allowance is 0.6cm but instead I folded over each seam 1cm then overlapped to make the button band so I think I’ve lost approximately 2cm on each shoulder seam which considerably decreases the neckline and armscye length. It still fits fine but it’s a lesson to me to not be so impatient to get started on a new garment. And I will  *cough cough* pay heed!


I made the size 3-4T which was a bit of a long shot given that wee gal is turning 2 next week but she is tall for her age and I’d rather make something too big than too small. I think the design of this garment hides the extra length quite well though. It just bunches around the baggy bum and legs area and it will grow with her so hopefully she’ll get lots of wear out of it for – um – the next two years probably!

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But besides the cool shape of this romper it is the fabric that really makes it special. The organic cotton is deserving of its name – it’s the happiest fabric I’ve ever seen. Wee gal had tons of complements when she wore it which makes the process of making clothes extra special. It feels good to know that your kids’ clothes are ethically made (the late nights are all my own!), organic, totally unique and make people smile. For extra feel goods this is Kids Clothes Week, a celebration of sewing for your kids which you can find out about here. The theme for the current challenge is Celebration and that couldn’t be more fitting for this amazing print which is surely a celebration of life!

Peace n love x



Like Father Like Son: Burda 6718 Sweatshirt


You would be forgiven for looking at this picture and thinking ‘Oh…the wee guy wanted a jumper just like his dad’s. How cute!’, when in actual fact, it was the other way around. Mr Dumpling saw his boy’s cool new tracksuit and announced that he would like one just like it. The jumper part anyway. I am not one to stifle anyone’s desire to express themselves – even as a giant child – so I had to agree.


D’s tracksuit is a combination of the Mini Hudson pants (made umpteen times before – what can I say? – fabulous pattern) and an Ottobre Design pattern modified into a sweatshirt (also made before.) The fabric is organic fleece-backed sweatshirt from Organic Textile Company. I love this shop. All their fabric is organic and fair-trade and it’s excellent quality too. This outfit was made a while ago (yes, I am incredibly slow to document my makes!) and it has been well and truly tested by D who enjoys a fair amount of climbing trees and hanging upside down in the park. You can see a small difference in the top picture where the colour looks slightly faded against the new jumper but I think it’s pretty good considering how many times the outfit has been washed and how much ruff and tumble it has been subjected to.

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I’ve mentioned here before that I am mostly a selfish sewer. I love sewing for the kids and do that often but most of my sewing time is for me. Not sorry about that in the slightest! However, very occasionally – usually around christmas or birthday times – I can be persuaded to make something for someone else. This was one of those times. Mr Dumpling wanted the same colours and same general shape as D’s jumper and the best I could find in the Big 4 offerings was Burda 6718.  It has a hood option and a cowl neck option rather than the simple neckband that D’s has but this was acceptable to my client so I went with it. The blue was the first one I made to test the fit. The sweatshirt fabric is from my stash and I used organic ribbing for the cuffs and hem. It’s technically a wearable muslin but as I had no changes to make it’s a pretty good bonus jumper. Who said selfish sewer?! I put the white cord through the cowl neck as it’s all I had but I should really look for a navy or yellow cord to make the jumper look more polished.

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The red and grey jumper is the hooded version but this was not my original plan. To make it look more like D’s jumper I attempted to put a neckband on it instead of the hood and this should have been easy enough. I anticipated the neck opening being too wide so I adjusted it to decrease the width and make it sightly higher but when I attached the band and tried it on my model it was ridiculously wide. Some unpicking and head-scratching later I accepted that the only way forward would be to stick the hood on and be done with it. This wasn’t a huge problem except that because I had decreased the neck opening the hood was now too wide and had to be overlapped at the front to fit. It doesn’t look too bad and I could have cut the opening to make it wider if I was that bothered. But I wasn’t, so I didn’t! Again, I need to get some matching cord for the neck to complete it.

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Mr Dumpling likes his jumpers and I do too. The pattern is a great fit, the length is perfect on him – he’s 6ft – and apart from my neck experimentations there were no modifications needed. I could be persuaded to make this again for him but as it’s a while before birthdays or Christmas he’ll have to wait. Selfish sewing resumes now!

Inari Tee Dress (and some thoughts on the fashion revolution)


I’ve jumped on the Inari Tee Dress bandwagon! And what a ride it is too! This is my first foray into the world of Named patterns and so far I’m pretty impressed. When you make this dress it’s easy to see why it’s been so popular – it’s been on an almost constant wardrobe rotation since I finished it because it’s just so dang comfy and that has to be a sure sign of success in anyone’s book. I often make items that only get worn the odd time because they’re not casual or comfortable enough for a day running about with the kids but this dress is all that. It’s a very simple unfussy shape which I like but the addition of the curved side seams and dropped back hem elevate it from boring to cool immediately.

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I used denim blue cotton jersey fabric from Remnant Kings. It’s a stable knit with minimal stretch but it’s ideal for this dress as the shape is so roomy. I’ve read others saying that they’d size up for a woven fabric but as this size works with this very unstretchy jersey I think it should be fine with woven. I’d like to try viscose or a soft linen next for summer (though perhaps unnecessary – we had snow yesterday. In April!)


Last week I was really happy to be able to tell anyone who would listen that I make my clothes. It’s not something that I generally waffle on about (more to do with the fact that few people I know sew) but last week I felt that I was allowed to be, or even meant to be, evangelical about it because it was Fashion Revolution Week. I sew because I enjoy making things. I studied jewellery design a long time ago and around that same time I also learned to sew (because you can never learn just one craft, right?!) Sewing quickly took over and now I make a lot of my clothes and my kids’ clothes too. I don’t manage everything – far from it – but it has taught me to be much more considered in my shopping habits as I have come to appreciate the time, effort and materials that go into making clothes. I know that for something to be that cheap there must be a pay-off somewhere. When I look at the high street I can’t help but imagine the hot, noisy sweatshops and the people who slave away in them for a meagre wage, the mountains of discarded ‘one-offs’ filling landfill and the variety of pesticides, chemical dyes and finishing agents bearing down on the environment. They say that ignorance is bliss and to me that can be the only reason that many shoppers continue to consume fast fashion in the levels they do. Maybe if we spent more time being evangelical about the dark side of fashion we could change a few minds. I’m working on it anyway.

Fashion Revolution Week has inspired me to keep sewing and to keep talking about it. I loved reading others’ opinions about the fashion industry and why they sew and, of course, seeing their makes. Sewing has become a much more exciting hobby with the advent of social media. There’s much more choice in patterns and styles and so much to be inspired by – my list of patterns to try and clothes to make grows ever longer! But for me Fashion Revolution Week and all the chat about avoiding fast fashion has legitimised the different forms of making and buying fashion that I do. So here are some of them…

I enjoy a refashion…


I shop on Ebay for second hand fashion…


I use organic cotton whenever possible…


And I make fashion.


And always be learnin’…


Happy Friday x



Wee Football Star in a Football Shirt (of sorts)

I love children’s clothes but I’m not hugely keen on the gendered offerings available in most high street shops. Everywhere I look boys’ clothes are covered in cars and trucks or ridiculous statements like ‘Here Comes Trouble’ that subtly suggest to boys that we expect them to be troublesome or even find it cute when they act boyish (or boorish). And girls’ clothes! All that pink and glitter and princessy, image-obsessed nonsense. (Don’t get me started on Frozen! Yes, I get that its supposed to be one of the good ones with an empowering female message and all but they’re still bloody princesses and there’s no need for their faces to be plastered all over clothes and toys. Give us a break. Please!) I’m quite particular about how I dress Wee Guy – I like simple shapes, comfortable fabric (cotton, always; organic, if possible) , colour and fun prints. It sounds easy, yes? Well its not. But it’s okay…I can make my own!

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I’ve sewn this pattern before. Many times, in fact. But who cares? Wee Guy needs new clothes and this is his ideal style. It’s my modified Mushroom top pattern from  Ottobre Design mag 4/2014, also seen here and here…oh and here too! I clearly love this pattern. What makes it so good though is that it’s the perfect simple shape to show off lovely fabrics. This one is Shalmiak’s Soccer Star which Wee Guy saw and immediately wanted for obvious reasons. It’s beautifully soft and stretchy and amazing quality. That and the ribbing, also Shalmiak, are from my Etsy shop. The grey fabric is organic cotton jersey from Organic Textile Company available here. Even the wee strip of blue covering the innards of the neck seam is organic but I can’t remember where  it’s from. That means the whole thing is organic! (Okay, except for the thread, damnit!) Wee Guy’s skin is quite sensitive so I try to use organic with him as much as possible but if I’m being honest the more I read about the cotton trade and the garment trade the more I feel compelled to buy organic. I feel uneasy when I think about the harm that the chemicals used in growing cotton and manufacturing fabric are doing and I’m not sure I want to contribute to that. That’s not to say I have fully committed to only buying organic yet but I’m definitely becoming more aware of the issues and my choices as a consumer.


The entire thing was constructed on the overlocker except for the neck binding and the hem which were done on the sewing machine. I’ve said it before but I’ll say again…I love the jersey stretch stitch on my Bernina! (as seen in the following picture). It has stood up to the demands that both of my children place on their clothing and those are big demands – Wee Guy has developed a sudden interest in climbing trees, need I say more?!



One happy boy! Will I make more of these? Er…yeah!


The Ladybird Dress – A Puperita Appreciation Special


It’s the spring holiday fortnight in Glasgow. Schools and nurseries are closed and I am off work but someone forgot to tell the weather gods and in typical West coast of Scotland holiday fashion it’s a wash out. So, what do you do on a drookit fortnight in Glasgow when it’s too wet to go outside and play? Make summer dresses of course! We live in hope…and in the meantime we are good at layering!

This is the Hula Hoop dress by the wonderful Puperita, an Etsy shop that specialises in clothing patterns for babies and children and today is the day that the very talented lady behind Puperita, Annalisa, is being celebrated by a variety of maker/bloggers who want to collectively show their appreciation and admiration for her and her amazing work. The patterns range from the whimsical to the everyday but every one is crafted with practicality and comfort in mind so that children can do what children do – move! (Sounds obvious but not all clothes for children are comfortable for children!) Annalisa is always on hand with advice and encouragement through her Etsy shop and Facebook group which makes the Puperita experience unlike any other. When you can ask the designer a question about fabric choices, sizing or for help with construction and receive an answer quickly you know you are dealing with someone who really loves what they do…and it makes all the difference. And the Puperita community demonstrates how popular Annalisa and her patterns are – lots of people eager to share pictures of the clothes they have made and to complement and find inspiration in others’. Puperita is a very popular pattern brand and it’s easy to see why when you make up one of the patterns.

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For the Hula Hoop dress I used this beautiful cotton ladybird print that my mum picked up on a holiday in Brighton in Ditto Fabrics. It’s quite a hefty cotton but nevertheless I fully lined the dress in more white cotton because it’s never that warm here, even in summer. The dress will get much more wear this way. I used a fuchsia pink cotton for the piping and cute wee green heart buttons that I had in my stash. The dress is fairly sturdy with all that fabric but as it’s cotton it’s breathable and very comfortable. Wee Gal rolled around all day yesterday in it and it did not restrict her movement in the slightest. I think I’ll make many more beautiful dresses from this pattern.

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This is only the second pattern I have made up by Puperita. You can see the Mini Tulips pinafore dress here but I have cut out the fabric pieces for the Lil Critters pinafore so that will be appearing on the blog soon. Thank you Annalisa for making such wonderful patterns and please know that this is one Mum (and one Wee Gal) who loves and appreciates what you do!


To see who else has participated in this Puperita appreciation day follow these links and enjoy…


Emi ~ Just Add Fabric     Jaime ~ Made By Jaime

Janice ~ So-Cal Sewing Mom     Soso ~Moineau & Petit Pois     Ula ~ Lulu & Celeste

Nuala ~ clootie dumplings     Pam ~ Threading My Way     Maria ~ Fairies, Bubbles & Co.

Shelly ~ Sew Shelly Sew     Chari ~ Take time to smell the rose     Helen ~ The DIY Fox

Karly ~ Paisley Roots     Sanae ~ Sanae Ishida     Melissa ~ Rebel & Malice

Janet ~ 7 Pine Design     Jenya ~ While she was sleeping 


Easter Chick Dress

DSC_0501This is Wee Gal’s new Easter chick dress made with some uncharacteristic forward planning on my part. Okay, I’ll admit, this was entirely accidental, but, by a very happy accident Wee Gal has the perfect dress for the season ahead. My Mum bought the fabric in Brighton last summer for me to make something for the wee one. It’s a lovely Robert Kaufman cotton with a weirdly large bird and egg print that works well in children’s clothes. Who wants to wear boring solids, after all?!


I used the Mini Tulips dress by Puperita, a great pattern company that sells on Etsy. The dress is designed to be reversible which is great for practical parents who can’t abide lunchtime mess – when baby gets grubby you pull the dress inside out and no one will ever know!  I used unexciting beige polkadot fabric on the inside so I doubt I’ll ever willingly put it on inside out but, still, it’s nice to have the option should Wee Gal ever tip her lunch down her front. I love the details of the piping and the inverted pleat on the front on what is an otherwise simple and easy-to-make dress.

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I’ll be making more of these but in the meantime I’ll leave you with the song we were singing during our photo shoot…

Chick, chick, chick, chick, chicken, lay a little egg for me

Chick, chick, chick, chick, chicken, I want one for my tea

Oh, I haven’t had an egg since Easter, and now it’s half past three

So, chick, chick, chick, chicken, lay a little egg for me


For the Kids: a spot of refashioning

Mr Clootie Dumpling was throwing out some clothes a while ago. He doesn’t do this very often as he does not have an extensive or varied wardrobe – it mainly consists of t-shirts, jumpers and denims – although, he would like me to point out that he is not a slob or a scruff. He considers himself to be a snappy dresser owing to a penchant for Italian designer brands and, in particular, sports jackets. Whatever. I rescued two sweatshirts from his bundle and got into a spot of refashioning.


The brown jumper is ancient – 15 years old was his guess – and it was pretty faded and worn looking. It still is but I managed to cut around most of the really faded parts and now it doesn’t look too bad. The pink jumper was not that old but Mr Clootie never really took to the pink. He doesn’t have anything against pink btw, he just didn’t think it suited him. I used the recycled sweatshirts for all main pattern pieces except the cuffs and bands which were cut from new organic cotton ribbing from my stash. The only notable thing about the whole experience was the pink fabric. I’ve never seen anything like it. There are two layers of jersey joined together by evenly spaced threads – it’s like the jersey version of double gauze. I don’t think you would call it sweat shirting but it is very thick and snuggly nevertheless.



I used a dress pattern from my workhorse of a pattern book, Ottobre Design 4/2014, for the pink dress and hacked it into a sweatshirt for the brown jumper. This involved simply lengthening the top pieces and adding a band at the bottom. Easy peasy.

Now that the cold (and wet, so blooming’ wet!) weather is upon us the kids are very pleased with their new ‘not new’ jumpers. Dad had better watch out. We might all go poking around his wardrobe looking for some more old jumpers to refashion.

It’s Bright: BHL Charlotte skirt in African wax cotton

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A good friend of mine was living in Kenya for a couple of years and was kind enough to haul several metres of various fabrics back for me each time she holidayed at home. African wax cotton is known for its wild prints with vibrant colours and often wacky designs. (This design is not what I would call wacky but I do have one with table fans…yes, table fans!) I love the colours on this fabric and I don’t think the photos accurately show how bright this is. The blue is really blue, the red is really red, the yellow…you get my drift! African cotton seems to be popular at the moment. I’ve seen it in the occasional shop window made into skirts and trousers but never one this bright. I am working my way up to a dress – this stuff would make an amazing dress – but in the meantime here is my By Hand London Charlotte skirt. Here, pattern and fabric are well matched – the simple lines of one allows the crazy lines of the other to shine.

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This skirt should be perfect…but…I muslined it a few months ago, then lost a bit of weight, then for some reason didn’t think to try on the muslin(!!!) before making the skirt last week. It is too big now at the waist by a couple of inches – not a huge amount but enough to annoy me so I’ll have to fix it before the xmas party season kicks in. Note to self…always try on muslins! I lined the skirt in duchess satin to give it some body as the cotton on its own was not enough to hold the shape of the skirt. I think it works pretty well if a bit strange. Is it strange? I’m not sure. Anyway, it works.

I am using Etsy to sell on some of my mountain of wax cottons so check here if you are interested. I will be adding more as I work my way through my stash – believe me, I have a lot!

Up in the Clouds

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This is my latest instalment of the Ottobre Design top from issue 4/2014 paired with trousers from the same issue and True Bias Mini Hudson Pants. I haven’t got a huge amount to say about the top pattern that you can’t see here…and I have also made the Mini Hudsons before. What can I say? When I find a pattern that works I tend to make it over and over. These two are my favs – relaxed, modern and fashionable. Wee Guy is a bit of a whirlwind so comfy clothes in which he can move around easily are definitely his preference. Wee Gal’s top and trouser set were not intended to look like pyjamas although, looking at the pictures, I can see that they do very much look like pyjamas. Not to worry, she’s a baby and is therefore oblivious! Sizes used are 104cm for Wee Guy and 86cm for Wee Gal.

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The cloud print fabric is from Remnant Kings in Glasgow. It’s cotton with around 6% elastane, beautifully soft and very stretchy with excellent recovery. I love it. Now, here’s the problem with living in Scotland at this time of year…there’s no blooming’ light! I took these pictures after work at around 5pm and it was already too dull. So, you probably can’t tell that these tops are actually two different colours – pink and red. It’s very obvious in real life but sadly, in this land of diminishing light, not so obvious here. The ribbing is from my stash – it’s also cotton. The blue sweatshirting used for the Mini Hudsons was part of a fabric haul I found on Gumtree. I scored a huge pile of jersey fabrics, including around 6m of this one, for an absolute song. I don’t know what it is exactly but I suspect it is 100% cotton. I just realised too that my version looks exactly like the sample version on the True Bias website! A very happy accident.

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The details… In an effort to make my knit clothes look as RTW as possible I’ve been adding a strip of binding to the inside of my necklines. I had a fair amount of trial and error to get a process that I was happy with but now I think I’ve nailed it. I use a strip of knit 2cm wide, stitch it to the seam allowance, fold down and edge stitch (still within the seam allowance) and then tuck under and edge stitch in place. This technique hides the unsightly innards while also stabilising the neckline. I then use the jersey stretch stitch on my machine to hem as it allows the fabric to stretch a lot!

And because kids are impossible to photograph these are the only pictures – out of about a thousand – that are not a flurry of blurred limbs.

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